Andy Hollis's Top Ten Auto-x Driving Tips

[kyle.bowker]

ANDY'S TOP TEN AUTOX DRIVING TIPS
By Andy Hollis
(Andy is a multiple National Solo Champion and an instructor for the Evolution Solo School)

Originally posted on Miata.Net

[Just got back from a weekend of teaching Evolution schools and thought I'd share some stuff that I must have said a thousand times.]

1] Position first, then speed. Positioning the car perfectly is more important than trying to attain the highest potential speed. For example, you will drop more time by correctly positioning the car nearer to slalom cones than you will by adding 1 or 2 MPH in speed. Same with sweepers (tight line). Same with 90-degree turns (use all of the track). Also, position is a prerequisite for speed. If you are not in the correct place, you will not be able go faster. Or at least not for very long!

2] Turn earlier...and less. To go faster, the arc you are running must be bigger. A bigger arc requires less steering. To make a bigger arc that is centered in the same place, the arc must start sooner (turn earlier).

3] Brake earlier...and less. Waiting until the last possible second approaching a turn and then dropping anchor at precisely the correct place so that the desired entry speed is reached exactly as you come to the turn-in point is quite difficult to execute consistently. Especially when you consider that you get no practice runs on the course, and the surface changes on every run, and you aren't likely to be in exactly the same position with the same approach speed on every run, etc. Better to start braking a little earlier to give some margin of error. And by braking less you can either add or subtract braking effort as you close in on the turn-in point. This will make you consistent and smooth.

4] Lift early instead of braking later. Continuing with the philosophy of #3, when you need to reduce speed only a moderate amount, try an early lift of the throttle instead of a later push of the brake. This is less upsetting to the car, is easier to do and thus more consistent, and allows for more precise placement entering the maneuver (remember #1 above).

5] Easier to add speed in a turn than to get rid of it. If you are under the limit, a slight push of the right foot will get you more speed with no additional side effects. On the other hand, if you are too fast and the tires have begun slipping, you can only reduce throttle and wait until the tires turn enough of that excess energy into smoke and heat. Don't use your tires as brakes!

6] Use your right foot to modulate car position in constant radius turns, not the steering wheel. In a steady state turn, once you have established the correct steering input to maintain that arc, lifting the throttle slightly will let the car tuck in closer to the inside cones. Conversely, slightly increasing the throttle will push the car out a bit farther to avoid inside cones. It is much easier to make small corrections in position with slight variations in the tires' slip angle (that's what you are doing with the throttle) than with the steering wheel.

7] Unwind the wheel, then add power. If the car is using all of the tire's tractive capacity to corner, there is none left for additional acceleration. At corner exit, as you unwind the wheel, you make some available. If you do not unwind the wheel, the tire will start to slide and the car will push out (see #6 above).

8] Attack the back. For slaloms (also applicable to most offsets), getting close to the cones is critical for quick times (see #1). To get close, we must move the car less, which means bigger arcs. Bigger arcs come from less steering and require earlier turning (see #2). Now for the fun part... When you go by a slalom cone and start turning the steering wheel back the other way, when does the car start to actually change direction? Answer: When the wheel crosses the center point (Not when you first start turning back!) How long does that take? If you are smooth, it takes .25 - .5 seconds. Now, how long is a typical person's reaction time? Answer: about .5 seconds. Finally, how long does it take to go between slalom cones? Answer: Typically on the order of 1 second. Given all of that, your brain must make the decision to begin turning the steering wheel back the other way just *before* you go by the previous cone!!

Since this is a mental issue, a good visualization technique to get used to this is to think about trying to run over the back side of each slalom cone with the inside rear tire of the car. To hit it with the rear tire (and not the front), the car must be arcing well before the cone and the arc must be shallow. Attack the back!

9] Hands follow the eyes, car follows the hands. 'Nuf said.

10] Scan ahead, don't stare. Keep the eyes moving. Looking ahead does not mean staring ahead. Your eyes must be constantly moving forward and back, and sometimes left and right. Glance forward, glance back. Your brain can only operate on the information you give it.

Bonus Tip: Don't forget the stuff in between the marked maneuvers! Too often we think of a course as series of discrete maneuvers. There is typically more to be gained or lost in the areas that are in between. Pay special attention to the places where there are no cones.

[flohtingPoint]

Good stuff, definitely a good read. #6 applies more to cars with power to the front wheels, but the rest is definitely applicable to me.

[BCAM]

Great find, thanks for sharing!

[dannykao]

These are great tips... Even if he hates karts.

[MazdaSC]

Good stuff, definitely a good read. #6 applies more to cars with power to the front wheels, but the rest is definitely applicable to me.

Actually it applies more to cars with rear wheel drive, you have more control over the balance and attitude with the throttle in a rear wheel drive car.

Certainly good info, now if I could only put it all to good use.

[defylogik]

Here are my tips:

#1 Mash gas

#2 Mash brake

#2.a Turn wheel

#3 Hit cones

use them only as a guideline

[edfooliu]

Good stuff, definitely a good read. #6 applies more to cars with power to the front wheels, but the rest is definitely applicable to me.

After summit, I've ticked the last box in the drivetrain layouts I've autoxed (well. with regard to driven wheels, at least..no mid/rear engines unless you count the kart) and would say #6 applies to all cars. In a rwd/awd, adding throttle can transition into power oversteer (unless you have way more grip than power). Before that point, however, you're still using the throttle the same way to adjust your line. Even if you rotate the back end out via power over, usually that still results in pushing your line wide--or at least causes you to scrub speed whilst sideways in order to maintain the tighter radius. It's just easier in a fwd since it never goes power over, and so the throttle only has one behavior for yaw control--lift to rotate, press to plant.

[flohtingPoint]

Good stuff, definitely a good read. #6 applies more to cars with power to the front wheels, but the rest is definitely applicable to me.

After summit, I've ticked the last box in the drivetrain layouts I've autoxed (well. with regard to driven wheels, at least..no mid/rear engines unless you count the kart) and would say #6 applies to all cars. In a rwd/awd, adding throttle can transition into power oversteer (unless you have way more grip than power). Before that point, however, you're still using the throttle the same way to adjust your line. Even if you rotate the back end out via power over, usually that still results in pushing your line wide--or at least causes you to scrub speed whilst sideways in order to maintain the tighter radius. It's just easier in a fwd since it never goes power over, and so the throttle only has one behavior for yaw control--lift to rotate, press to plant.

Sure, you can adjust the behavior via throttle with RWD cars also, but not like the tips say. Tips say more throttle will cause you to swing wider, which is true with cars that are not RWD. More throttle in a turn with RWD wont induce understeer, it'll cause oversteer. Thats what I was getting at.

[edfooliu]

My point is it's not that simple... in a FWD it _is_ simple because a FWD is incapable of reducing rear traction by adding power. Thus in a FWD, the throttle controls _one_ variable--longitudinal weight transfer (okay technically it can cause power understeer as well, but same effect). Weight transfer is the primary tool most cars--regardless of drivetrain layout--use to change grip levels on each end of the car, and that's what you're doing with the throttle to rotate the car.

This is valid until you cross over into power oversteer, which may never happen if your front grip is too depleted (see: stock BMWs). That's the wrinkle for RWD...as you add throttle, weight shifts to the rear, increasing grip like any other car and increasing push like any other car (as front grip is removed). But at some point in the throttle position/engine powerband, you may have enough power to overcome the additional grip, and from that point onward, more throttle has the opposite effect of reducing grip.

You just might not notice that effect if you have either a ton of power or not enough rear grip to begin with (setup a RWD like you would a FWD and you probably couldnt _make_ it push)...or if your foot only knows two throttle positions (I had a TON of trouble transitioning to the kart because my civic had me trained for full-on/full-off throttle). But that has nothing to do with the inherent nature of rwd vs awd vs fwd.

Hollis' generalization is still a good point because you very rarely find a good situation where power oversteer is a better technique than rotating it with throttle-lift. I can think of a few very specific cases where it's useful in my kart, but even then you induce it with a throttle-lift-turn-in, not just turning it and giving it a bootful.

[dannykao]

Sure, you can adjust the behavior via throttle with RWD cars also, but not like the tips say. Tips say more throttle will cause you to swing wider, which is true with cars that are not RWD. More throttle in a turn with RWD wont induce understeer, it'll cause oversteer. Thats what I was getting at.

Actually, that would depend on the setup, and how much power that is applied to a rear wheel drive car.

A perfect example is running the skidpad at Summit using their old Impalas: In a steady state turn, you can both induce understeer or oversteer in the rear wheel drive Impala; and instructors will show you how to induce both, and how to correct both. Both front and rear alignment, track width and front and rear stiffness can also induce more oversteers or understeers.

Andy Hollis has been in the scene for many years, and if his tip is not correct, he would be torn apart in SCCA first. If this is published, then I am sure the info is pretty reliable. JMHO.

[hepcatz]

All are great tips as the info in Secrets of Solo Racing. I read them, study them continually. While qued I repeat them over and over in my mind. Retracing the diagrams and charts. Then, when I hear "send the car" over the starter's radio, it all goes for a toss as I charge down course screaming "ahhh s@#%t cones!!" lol

john n

[DrSeuss]

My point is it's not that simple... in a FWD it _is_ .... can think of a few very specific cases where it's useful in my kart, but even then you induce it with a throttle-lift-turn-in, not just turning it and giving it a bootful.

Ugh. My head hurts!!

J/K. Transitioning to my BMW is definitely a learning experience. I had the same on/off throttle problem coming from my civic.

[wrathe74]

My point is it's not that simple... in a FWD it _is_ .... can think of a few very specific cases where it's useful in my kart, but even then you induce it with a throttle-lift-turn-in, not just turning it and giving it a bootful.

Ugh. My head hurts!!

J/K. Transitioning to my BMW is definitely a learning experience. I had the same on/off throttle problem coming from my civic.

If you want even more information, I highly recommend the following :
Carroll Smith's Books
Tune To Win
Engineer to Win
Drive To Win

[awptickes]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076033 ... oh_product

I just bought that and started reading it. The one thing that I learned was how much I need to learn.

[defylogik]

For those poor bastards like me, you can read quite a bit for free on google books of many books:

http://books.google.com/books?id=KQ9NTU ... navlinks_s

[awptickes]

For those poor bastards like me, you can read quite a bit for free on google books of many books:

http://books.google.com/books?id=KQ9NTU ... navlinks_s

Yeah, I got frustrated with the "limited previews" and just bought it.

[Jim Harris]

Advice from some of the WDCR hot shoes gleaned since 2003:

--Use all of the car all of the time (brakes, throttle). Maximize use of the car's performance systems starting the instant they say, "Send the car". Don't stop, not for an instant, until after the timing lights.

--In picking a line, save space on the course rather than carry speed when faced with the trade off. (I'm not all that good at this.)

--Be more aggressive. Now be even more aggressive.

--Seat time, seat time, seat time.

Then there's all the Evo School stuff about looking ahead. I like how one of the WDCR hot shoes interprets this, because it's easy to think of it this way:

--Sneak a peak. Do this all the way around the course.

I like what Hollis has to say, but the above is easier to implement.

[disenfranchised]

Then, when I hear "send the car" over the starter's radio, it all goes for a toss as I charge down course screaming "ahhh s@#%t cones!!"

This. A thousand times, this.

[eage8]

Then, when I hear "send the car" over the starter's radio, it all goes for a toss as I charge down course screaming "ahhh s@#%t cones!!"

This. A thousand times, this.

lol, +1

I think the first thing everyone has to get good at is not doing this. It's what I've been concentrating on the most actually remember what you're supposed to be working on when you're on the course...

[awptickes]

I'm always waiting on edge listening to the radio, when I hear "send the car" my pulse rapidly increases, and I get antsy. After they say "Go" I take a deep breath, slip the clutch a little bit, clear my mind, then launch. I try to not pay attention to anyone else, just listening to the car, working out the line, and trying to miss all of those damned orange things that are in the way.


What really throws me off is when one of the workers is playing with a red flag, and I see it in the corner of my eye. That kinda freaks me out, then I lose concentration. X_X

[Claff]

What really throws me off is when one of the workers is playing with a red flag, and I see it in the corner of my eye. That kinda freaks me out, then I lose concentration. X_X

If I'm manning the flag I always make sure I keep it tightly rolled up and, if I'm thinking, held behind my back or behind a leg so it's completely out of sight as a car approaches. I hate turning a corner and seeing workers running around. I know it's not always possible but I try to be back in a safe place and standing still by the time the next car comes through just to keep distractions to the driver to a minimum.

[saint_foo]

^ Flags are supposed to be unfurled!! That way you can quickly wave it.

I do see the distraction from a driver's point. I catch myself playing with the flag and think, "whoops!" It really should be unfurled, maybe pinch one corner to keep it from fluttering, then try to remember to keep it at your side or away from the driver's view.

[Ben L]

While on the subject . . . .

I leave it unfurled, but scrunch it into a bunch with the hand holding it, so its ready for instant use. I try to "hide" it lengthwise along my arm as cars approach and pass, but the main thing is to keep it stationary.

When the "flag 'em" call goes out, and its deployed, I jump up and down, scream and yell in my best Richard impression, and wave it like mad. If you don't stop, I may even swear at you.

But it is really annoying to see course workers waving it distractedly or having it tightly rolled up and golfing pebbles with it. Or standing around with it in their hand when the "flag 'em" call goes out. All of which I've seen this year at CDC.

[mla163]

What really throws me off is when one of the workers is playing with a red flag, and I see it in the corner of my eye. That kinda freaks me out, then I lose concentration. X_X

If I'm manning the flag I always make sure I keep it tightly rolled up and, if I'm thinking, held behind my back or behind a leg so it's completely out of sight as a car approaches. I hate turning a corner and seeing workers running around. I know it's not always possible but I try to be back in a safe place and standing still by the time the next car comes through just to keep distractions to the driver to a minimum.

Ted Joseph's Rule #1 - The cars are trying to kill you.

This happened to me last weekend at SCCA, at least 4 cars went off course directly at my station, towards my co workers. I flagged them like a madman, called them evil things, and sent them back on course. Having that flag unfurled may have helped out a little. Screaming like Axl Rose also helped.

which leads to...

Ted Joseph Rule #2 - You want to wave an orange flag, not an orange stick. Wave it like it's on fire.