auto detailing

[kyle.bowker]

I didn't get a chance to do my normal pre-winter preventative maintenance on my Miata's paint finish so after a long winter it is looking pretty tired. In the next few weeks as the weather improves I plan to spend a whole day cleaning and detailing my car to restore the finish to something acceptable. I'm looking to eek out another year before getting a paint job. Red Miatas are notorious for their oxidation and my panels are all mismatched pink now. Last year I did purchase a Craftsman random orbital polisher but I was disappointed in the job it did and reverted to hand polishing and waxing. I got it thinking that it would be easier to get replacement pads at my local Sears but this isn't the case as they don't have a good selection.

It seems the pros all use a Porter-Cable or similar professional grade tool. Any advice on which polisher to get? Where to buy it? What pads to purchase? In the past I've only ever done a regular hand wash followed by polishing compound and another wash and then clay bar and another wash and finished with pure carnuba wax. I've never used a paint sealant before. It seems most auto detailers are anal retentive and have very eccentric preferences on which products to use. I just need some quick advice on which order to do things in and some decent, affordable product to use. Thanks!

[Claff]

I'm curious about what you found lacking with the Sears polisher. Ever since I got mine there's no way I'd go back to hand waxing anymore. With a couple black cars, including a non-clearcoat Brilliant Black Miata, you have to do wax right or it'll be all swirls and streaks, and I don't get those. My regiment's pretty simple, wash, dry & wax with Meguires NXT and that's it.

I admit getting replacement bonnets from Sears is hit and miss, but if I go one week and they don't have what I need, odds are they'll have it the next week.

[hepcatz]

Mine isn't a Sears model but I'm sure it is equivelent. Although the quality of finish isn't a lot higher than when I did it by hand, the reduction in time and elboe grease makes it a winner, especially in summer. Try doubling up on the waxes, carnuba is great for shine but not the best for long lasting protection. I use a grime remover on the wheels and lower panels, wash, dry and wax twice. (I think you can delete some of your washing steps.) First with a good quality protectant wax then with carnuba. Twice a year I add in to that a quick clay bar after the wash.

John

[david.valeri]

I have a PC. The time to wax a car with a modern polymer wax like Meguiars Gold Class liquid is 1-2 hours tops. It is shorter if you are careful and don't need to tape up your plastic trim. It used to take me 2-4 hours doing it by hand and I was ready to pass out at the end of the day. Get yourself a Velcro backing plate and then buy whatever pads you like from any of the online vendors. The foam pads and microfiber bonnets can be washed and reused many times as well. I use a wax/finishing pad for wax application, a cutting pad with a microfiber bonnet over it for wax removal, and I used a polishing pad with a swirl remover to try to get some of the swirls out of the hood on the Integra. A word of caution on the more aggressive compounds and pads: Let's just say I learned my lesson about using too much pressure, contaminated pads, and/or using too high of a speed as the Integra now has a couple pink splotches on it from that experiment.

I can wash, clay, wash, and wax a car in a single morning with the PC. That used to be a one to two day activity because it was so exhausting. Well worth the money in my opinion.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/ has a lot of articles, a forum, and an online store for supplies if you need them.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/ar ... asp?Show=2 also has a series of articles about detailing including the application and use of clay, sealants, and glazes.

My Miata looked worlds better with just a good wash and wax with the PC. My pads had a lot of red in them when I was done so I know I ended up taking off a lot of oxidized paint. Since your paint is old, you may want to start with less aggressive methods and work you way towards the more aggressive methods until you are satisfied.

[kyle.bowker]

So do I hear that you're hosting a detail seminar at your house? lol

I think my Craftsman buffer is rather large diameter - good for a boat or larger panels on a truck or van, not so good for a Miata. The bonnets always slip off and get contaminated very quickly.

[david.valeri]

So do I hear that you're hosting a detail seminar at your house? lol

I think my Craftsman buffer is rather large diameter - good for a boat or larger panels on a truck or van, not so good for a Miata. The bonnets always slip off and get contaminated very quickly.

Yeah, I have two sizes of pads for different areas of the car and the bonnets reach all the way around the pad and cover most of the top of the pad as well. I owe you some favors so if you want to come over and use it once the weather warms up, you are more than welcome. I'll even let you wear my ultra stylish detailing apron. Yeah that's right, I wear an apron when I wax the car.

[jmac]

We use a variable speed buffer to get the serious dullness out. Then we go over it with an orbital buffer from Meguires. For quick clean ups we use Meguires quick wax. It work great. Wax isn't designed to stay on for a long time. The paint needs to breathe. I think I'm going to use the quick wax once a month or so. I don't think it lasts as long but it's super easy to use. The reason red paint dulls out so quick is the pigment. It's different from other pigments which is also what makes it so much more expensive. We painted a Chevy pick up and the color was $450.00 a gallon.

[JoeTR6]

If your Miata has original paint, be careful. My (formerly) 1990 Miata was showing white primer on more than one edge. Maybe they thickened the paint on later cars, but Mazda didn't waste any paint on the early ones.