battery relocation

[hufflepuff]

How come i don't see many CDC members moving that heavy brick of lead and acid to their trunks?

just curious, because im very front heavy and have considered moving the battery to the trunk.

[eage8]

How come i don't see many CDC members moving that heavy brick of lead and acid to their trunks?

just curious, because im very front heavy and have considered moving the battery to the trunk.

I relocated the battery in my RX-7 to the passenger side rear storage bin (behind the seat).

2 things to think about:
- Make sure you get a sealed battery or vented battery box because normal batteries create poisonous gases and cause rust
- put a circuit breaker on the connection because the new cable is going to be pretty long.

you could just get a lighter battery from braille

also, miatas already have their batteries in the trunk, and that's what 50% of CDC members drive anyway

[Dan133]

Thanks Mike, now the secret's out and everybody will know how I beat the Cobras every week.

[ferris]

what about a braille battery in the trunk ...

[hufflepuff]

I might look into an optima AGM sealed battery so it doesnt give off hydrogen during normal operation.

Mike, no plans to move your SR5's battery further back?

[eage8]

I might look into an optima AGM sealed battery so it doesnt give off hydrogen during normal operation.

Mike, no plans to move your SR5's battery further back?

I thought about just getting a really light braille in the stock location... but I have more important things to spend my money on currently... like the Ground Controls I just bought

[D_Eclipse9916]

I might look into an optima AGM sealed battery so it doesnt give off hydrogen during normal operation.

Mike, no plans to move your SR5's battery further back?

So just to get this straight. You plan on buying an optima, that is as heavy or heavier than stock, and then getting a circuit breaker, 0 gauge wiring for about 8-10 feet, a terminal....to help handling?

On 99% of production cars, reducing weight ANYWHERE is way more important than balancing it. I would suggest getting a small braile, honda civic, or motorcycle battery in the stock location or like many cars, somewhere on the front subframe behind the front axle axis. Instead of moving 35lbs to the rear but adding 10-20lbs in the process. 0 gauge isnt lightweight.

Just a suggestion btw but losing weight at your level of prep is more important than where. (of course there are extremes thats why I said at your prep level).

Also I hope he doesnt plan on moving the SR5s battery further back than the center of the mass and center of the gravity of the car. He actually has good positioning in those buckets, although I hope he has some shielding on it, but for autox purposes its no big deal.


If you want to do an experiment. Grab 2 25lb weights and using secure methods, do a timed run on a skidpad or autox course with the weight in the front/center/rear and then completely removed. I really think at your level the times will be "noise" but the one with the least amount of weight will be faster than any rearranging of weight.

[hufflepuff]

It's an interesting but practically challenging idea to add 50lbs of ballast to each end of the car and then run a few laps to perform statistical analysis (anova) to tell where the weight helps and hurts. Removing the spare tire and jack simulates loosing about 40lbs from the rear. how to add/subtract weight from nose is the more difficult part.

My objective is removing weight from the front end, not neccessarily overall weight since i have much more braking and acceleration than front end cornering grip. Loosing 40lbs from the front and adding it to the rear would probably have an effect on the handling and peak grip of the car.